NEW PLACES T H A Imarket 960 Amsterdam Avenue (107stth Street),(212) 280-4575
Anyone
who has eaten at the simple restaurants opening onto the streets of
bangkok will feel transported upon walkung into Thai Market.
Backlighted blowups of food scenes are so evocative of that city that
they make you smile. The food does, too The room is a clever mix of
contemporary and old-fashioned : the photos cover old brick walls ;
huge red upside-down umbrellas disguise the original tin ceiling.
The place has a floor-to-ceiling glass front and a modern version of
marble-top ice cream tables. Temple bells share a wall with a sign that
says, "We do not serve incomplete parties."
The food at THAImarket, which opened in April and does not yet have a
liquor license, was also a blend of traditional and new, as well as
tasty. The young manager told me Thai recipes are made "with things
Americans like," which I discovered soon enough. That’s how you get
avocado in massaman curry and tomato in a green papaya salad, though a
friend told me thetomato in the salad was not uncommon in Thailand.
But despite my aversion to the Upper West Side penchant for mixing --
and mixing badly -- Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, Korean and who knows
what other food in one restaurant, those few American additions to Thai
cuisine were not offensive. Probably because the food still tasted
good, and basically Thai.
I could have wished for a little more depth in some of the dishes, like
the tom yum goong soup with shrimp and lemon grass, but the lightly
battered fried calamari with a sweet, slightly hot plum sauce were the
kind you don’t want to share. Add the fast, pleasant service, and this
restaurant is a keeper.
Beside. it has two of my favorite desserts : ginger ice cream and green pearl tapioca in a cconut milk pudding.
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